How to Crochet the Herringbone Stitch ~the EASY Way!!

 
Pin for later here!

Pin for later here!

I’m a sucker for a beautiful crochet stitch pattern with gorgeous texture, and this Half Double Herringbone Stitch does not disappoint!

From the moment I learned it I was hooked, and the most surprising thing about this stitch is how EASY it is to make!

The stitch pattern creates a thick texture that leaves very little holes in the fabric, so it is perfect for home décor and bags, and I really love how the stitch pattern looks like a cross between a woven basket and a fishtail braid.  

Pictured is my 11” Amaryllis Bag using the half double herringbone stitch pattern.

Pictured is my 11” Amaryllis Bag using the half double herringbone stitch pattern.

I recently used this stitch in my Amaryllis Bag and Keychain Wallet, and it really makes such a statement. I have received so many compliments on my items made with this stitch (for of course I had to keep an Amaryllis Bag for myself!) and have had many requests to make them for others.

Pictured is my Amaryllis Keychain Wallet. You can find the free pattern here.

Pictured is my Amaryllis Keychain Wallet. You can find the free pattern here.

The stitch pattern itself is made using ANY stitch count, and you only need to know how to make a half double crochet. Doesn’t that just blow your mind?! I know it did mine!

The concept is that you wrap a loop of yarn around the post of your previous half double crochet while simultaneously creating the next half double crochet. That’s it!

I am going to explain the steps for making this stitch to you, using some abbreviations (US terminology):

Chain - ch

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Repeat – rep

Stitch(es) - st(s)

Yarn Over – YO

 

Half Double Herringbone - HDH

Each row of HDH begins with 2 regular hdc sts before you can begin the actual st pattern. Once you have 2 hdc, you will:

 

1)    Count backwards 2 sts (counting the st you made last) and insert your hook, YO, pull up a loop.

2)    YO, move forward to the next open st, insert your hook, YO, pull up a loop, YO, pull through all 4 loops on your hook.

 

You will rep steps 1-2 all the way across until you reach the last st of the row. To visualize this process, see my video here.

I wanted to give you a small project to practice this stitch on that works up relatively quickly. I love to use Big Twist Textile yarn from Joann’s for this stitch because the polyfil stuffing inside the yarn really makes this gorgeous stitch pattern pop. I used that yarn for this project, but you could realistically use a bulky weight wool or cotton (you want to use 100% wool or cotton if you plan to use this for a hot pad).

This pattern is written to make a trivet and a small coaster, but you could realistically use this stitch pattern to make beautiful placemats or a table runner; or even for washcloths or swiffer pads. You could also make baskets or trays, pot covers for your plants, mug rugs, a squishy rug for your foyer—the sky’s the limit! I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

Let’s get to it!!

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To skip the ads and get a printable pdf version of this pattern, you can find a copy for a relatively low cost in both my Etsy and Ravelry shops.

Supplies Needed:

-108 yds of Big Twist Textile yarn, or any super bulky weight size 6 yarn in 100% wool or cotton

-Size K 6.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain gauge

-2” wooden ring for larger trivet (optional) I use these

-Scissors, tape measure

 

Terms Used and Abbreviations:

Pattern is written in US terminology

Back Loop Only – BLO

Begin(ning) – beg

Chain – ch

Fasten Off – FO

Front Loop Only – FLO

Half Double Crochet – hdc

Half Double Herringbone - HDH

Repeat – rep

Single Crochet – sc

Skip – sk

Slip Stitch – sl st

Stitch(es) – st(s) 

Yarn Over – YO

 

Gauge:

10 sts and 7 rows of HDH = 4” (10 cm)

 

Finished Measurements:

Larger trivet measures approx. 8” x 8” (20 x 20 cm)

Smaller coaster size measures approx. 5” x 5” (12.5 x 12.5 cm)

 

Instructions:

 

8”x8” Trivet

Trivet is worked from bottom end to loop/ring end in the row.

 

Row 1: Ch 20. Working in the BLO of your ch sts, hdc in the 3rd ch from your hook, hdc in next st, beg steps 1-2 of HDH across (see special sts). [18 HDH]

 

Rows 2-11: Ch 2 (beg ch does not count as a st from here on out), turn, HDH across. [18 HDH]

 

NOTE: If you intend to make a hanging loop instead of adding a wooden ring, complete rows 2-13 of the HDH and skip down to instructions for adding hanging loop.

 

Row 12 (Decrease): Ch 2, turn, HDH across to last 4 sts, leave last 4 sts unworked. [14 HDH]

 

Rows 13-14: Ch 2, turn, HDH across. [14 HDH]

I’ve included a YouTube video to help with this project. See below:

 

Add your wooden ring

To visualize this process, see my YouTube video here.

Ch 1, turn your piece so that you are working down the edge of the rows where you decreased. Loosely sl st in every row down and across to the end of row 11. [8 sl sts]

 

Step 1:

Ch 1. Turn so that you are working back up your sl sts. NOTE: You will only be working through the FLO of each sl st to end.

Grab your wooden ring and place it between your working yarn and your hook. Going through the wooden ring, YO and draw up a loop (essentially making a sl st into the ring).

 

Step 2:

Move your wooden ring to the right and out from between your working yarn and hook. Place your hook in the FLO of the next sl st. YO and draw up a loop (2 loops on hook).

 

Step 3:

Move the ring back between your working yarn and your hook. Going through the wooden ring, YO and draw through both loops on your hook.

Repeat steps 2-3 until you have gone through all 8 sl sts. You should have 8 sc in your wooden ring when you are finished. FO and weave in your tails.

 

Add your hanging loop

Row 14: Ch 2, turn, HDH across to last st, ch 15, make last HDH in last st of row. [18 HDH, 1 ch-15 loop]

 

FO, leaving a long tail to wrap around base of hanging loop. Weave in tails.

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5” x 5” Coaster

Coaster is worked from bottom end to loop end in the row.

 

Row 1: Ch 13. Working in the BLO of your ch sts, hdc in the 3rd ch from your hook, hdc in next st, beg steps 1-2 of HDH across (see special sts). [11 HDH]

 

Rows 2-7: Ch 2 (beg ch does not count as a st from here on out), turn, HDH across. [11 HDH]

 

Add your hanging loop

Row 8: Ch 2, turn, HDH across to last st, ch 10, make last HDH in last st of row. [11 HDH, 1 ch-10 loop]


FO, leaving a long tail to wrap around base of hanging loop. Weave in tails.

 

Make your coaster into a mug rug

You could also make your coaster into a mug rug by using double strands of 100% ww cotton. Follow the same st and row counts, leaving off the hanging loop. Then simply add fringe 2"- 3" in length to every row.

Pictured is a the coaster made as a mug rug by my tester Gail Talley Smith.

Pictured is a the coaster made as a mug rug by my tester Gail Talley Smith.

Photo credit: Gail Talley Smith

Photo credit: Gail Talley Smith

Your Herringbone Trivet Set is complete! I would love to see your finished work! If you want to tag me on IG, I’m @dayscrochetnc. You could also follow the hashtag #herringbonetrivet to follow what others are making.  I can’t wait to see your projects! If you would like to see other versions that I will be making after this publication, be sure to check me out on IG!

 

Please note that you do not have my permission to sell, share, copy, translate, or duplicate this pattern or my photos in any way. Please do not use this pattern for a video, blog, or class tutorial. Thank you so much for following these simple rules! Please message me on Facebook or send me an email at dayscrochetnc@gmail.com with any questions.

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Did you like learning this stitch pattern and enjoy making this project? Let me know in the comments!

Happy hooking!

~Dana